Denali dry shower

Story 14/21: Maintenance day at Basin Camp, 4330 m, Denali

Maintenance day at Basin Camp, 4330 m, Denali

Story 14/21: High winds at high places

May, 2008

Fresh white snow multiplies the force of the sun. Hustle and bustle fill the Basin Camp. For two days blizzard kept people mostly in their tents. Yesterday the winds were so high, that they really sounded like a large waterfall. It was not the usual howling wind, but true rumble that kept shifting on low tones.

For the first time we heard it we rushed to see, whether there was an avalanche or rock slide hitting our way. The sounds came from the above and went away and re-emerged following the speed of the wind. We realized it must come from extremely high winds pushing past the higher ridges and peaks.

Knowing the storm would be rather fierce, we had enforced the snow walls surrounding our tent three days ago and were able to safely recharge melting snow, reading, writing, eating and listening to music while the white mass was piling up to round the edges of the barriers we had built.

At 5245 meters things were radically different. Despite the protective precautions half-a-dozen high mountain tents of reputable brands had been battered to pieces. Must have been exhausting to be wrapped in the giant wind tunnel having the remains of a tent whip you and your partner, each cocooned into a mountaineering sleeping bag. 

The winds over the West Buttress were way higher than in the protected cauldron of the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 4330 m. Air up was also drier, thus the racing snow-flakes were cutting their way through the protective snow walls – letting the murderous winds eat through the white walls.

So, on this sunny morning small groups of tired climbers were descending the headwall from the high camp. Within the low white walls of a self-built open-air kitchen one mountaineer was taking his first shower in couple of weeks.

Even though it was way below zero, sun warmed the skin, while he was rubbing it clean with baby sanitary wipes. He also powdered some dry shampoo to his long curly hair, scrubbing the itching scalp. Brushing the tangles away took ages, but felt great.

Covering the cleaned and cooled skin with another set of woolen underwear and slipping into a down jacket to continue the maintenance by cutting the toe nails and sprinkling some talc to the wiped feet – before sliding them into clean socks. Up here you really learn to value simple things of life.

To conclude the maintenance, he washed handkerchiefs and socks. He poured some water from a thermos to an empty and cleaned pouch of alpine food, added some soap and put socks in one at a time squeezing them clean. Some more hot water to rinse and finishing flush with snow. Ready to hang them to dry to the arctic sun – along with a long-sleeved set of wool underwear – already “breathing” itself clean on the cord.

Sun lotion to face, hands and ears, sun glasses, pants and boots on and this new born climber was ready to hit the main drag of this tent-town – along with his two climbing buddies.

Some background data:

Denali:

Denali: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denali

Denali National Park: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denali_National_Park_and_Preserve

Denali State Park: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denali_State_Park

Sustainable mountaineering:

Mountain waste management: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Everest#Waste_management

Types of mountaineering: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mountaineering#Styles_of_mountaineering

Seasonal work: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seasonworker

Questions – see links above, books, Internet or digital media for answers:

1. Denali sanitation. Denali is the highest mountain of North America and it attracts fair deal of mountaineers. As the Arctic nature is vulnerable, Nature Park officials are strict on littering. All the gear of the expeditions are weighted (also to charge by weight of the aerial transport needed to Kahiltna Glacier) both ways. Trash – including faeces, that has to be brought down from the snowy mountain in buckets – are inspected at the park office, when the climbers register out from the park. 

Due to this Denali is – despite the heavy traffic – rather clean mountain. There are many less popular mountains in the world, where it is not uncommon to come across toilet paper, when you are melting water from the snow. Any litter decomposes slowly in the Arctic.

It is not nice to find brown, iced dookie in what is supposed to be your meal, but what other harm can you think of tons of human wastes on isolated mountains and glaciers?

2. Alpine tourism. Traditional alpine style ascents can be done without hired help, among dedicated mountaineers, like we did our Denali expedition. We carried all our food, fuel and gear at sledges and backpacks.

Highest Himalayan peaks are mostly climbed in expedition style, using large amount of sherpas working as guides, porters and cooks. Similar approach has been spreading to lower mountains, too. Adventure travel agencies provide services to people with various skill levels. This has led to people cuing in serene hills or Mt. Everest above 8000 m and tens of tons of waste accumulating to the slopes of Mount Everest.

Can you see similarities on how western way of life utilises natural resources and expedition climbing on Everest? What is similar? What different? Consider money, roles of local and international people, access and maintenance.

3. High seasons: At many mountains there are seasons most suitable for summit attempts. As peaks are often at remote areas mountaineers and possible guides and personnel need to travel to and from highlands. Sometimes from different countries and continents.

Part of alpinism in attempting to “summit” peaks, so to get to the highest point of that mountain. Yet, highest is not necessarily most interesting, most beautiful, rugged or serene. But those are relative and even personal assessments. Numbers are absolute, hence easier to compare and discuss – even with limited understanding.

As Denali is in the middle of vast arctic river delta, only reasonable modern access there is flying with small planes, that land on skies to a glassier. Some provisions to higher base camp are flown with a helicopter.

There are numerous peaks in North America, that are lot easier to access. Why do you think Denali is so popular? Altitude? Sense of adventure? The climbing infrastructure available? Challenge? What else?

4. Discuss. Your view: What thoughts did rise in your mind having read the story, browsing through the background material and answering to the three questions above? Can you see links between the three topics handled in questions above? Discuss with your pair.

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