Eating sand at Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau

Story 5/21: Ulugh Muztagh expedition

Eating sand at Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau

Ulugh Muztagh expedition

September, 2003

Kyrgyz ex-military truck advances steadily on its six monster wheels. Sand, moraine and random boulders dominate the moon-like scenery. Route cuts occasionally through dry riverbeds.

Lively discussions go on among the 12 Finnish Ulugh Muztagh -expedition members lined up on the benches of this high-altitude omnibus. Atmosphere is pier with the elevation, as finally – after months of preparations the motor march through the most remote rural areas of Kirgizstan and South-Western China is steadily advancing.

The discussions vary from approaching acclimatisation climbs to comparisons of backpacks and other gear they have along. Crop cut guy from the third row is making fun of the costume of the pony-tailed bloke on the second row. The outfit is brand new – bough couple of days earlier from the vast outdoor bazar of Kashgar, the capitol of the Prefecture of the same name.

Despite the novelty garment appears quite traditional. The design has not changed much since its introduction in 1920’s as kind of mishmash of military and school uniforms as well as Western suits to a then modern Chinese suit. First worn by the followers of Sun Yat-sen, the first leader of the Kuomintang and later to become kind of a national suit of the Mao Zedong -era People’s Republic of China.

Returning to the backwater gravel-travels, the fellow in the grey local suit claims, that he just wants to blend in – and besides – one billion Chinese cannot be wrong; well back in history anyways. It must be a practical outfit somewhere rural and far away from washing machines.

“Well, I believe more in progress and modern technical gear. Like the backpacker trousers you had yesterday in town. And besides, if you really want to blend in, why run around with long hair? We aren´t on Sunset Boulevard and it is not the 1980’s anymore” goes the chap behind.

“You remember I did go to the barbershop last weekend here, but must have been some kind of cultural block, since they did not shave me clean, hah.”

“Or maybe they tried, but you were clinging to your bush with such a persistence, that they did not dare…”

“Could be, could be. But that was pretty entertaining – lots of Uighurs there and good laughs despite the lack of a common language.”

“Yeah, I remember. But look, we are arriving. Looks like you get to put your local outfit to a test.”

“Yap. Fab. I’m hungry!”

This was a tiny settlement in vast rural area at the endless highlands. Random low houses were sprinkled to the rugged landscape. Group of villagers had gathered to check a sight – us. It must be very seldom to see visitors – not to mention Westerners. Our Chinese guides had preorganised a lunch for us here.

Only place they could seat twenty was out – nice, clean tables under light weaved canopy. Practical, as rain was uncommon. After interacting with locals, we seated to lunch and were enjoying a nice broth, as a sudden sandstorm hit the outpost.

Our drivers ran to cover the trucks better and to secure the cargo at the roof. Once they returned, the rest of the meal we got few extra spoons of additional spice to the food, as it was impossible to cover the plates and anyway the grains of sand flew straight to mouth. A proper desert welcome.

Some background data:

Drought: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drought

Xinjiang: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xinjiang

Xinjiang internment camps: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xinjiang_internment_camps

Ulugh Muztagh: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ulugh_Muztagh

Minority rights: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minority_rights

Questions:

1. Drought. Climate crisis has made normal droughts (extended dry periods) longer and more frequent. More sandstorms to some regions, but what else? Consider:
   1. drinking water for people, domestic and wild animals
   2. agriculture
   3. ecological effects
2. Minority rights. It is not only Western ideology, that has tried to dominate local traditions. Throughout history and regimes there has been attempts to cut away cultural diversity on ethnic grounds. Back in 2003 the process was already going on in Xinjiang and some riots had occurred. Still the large traditional bazar was operational, even though Han Chinese shopkeepers of the modern department store were doing their morning exercise out in the street to loud Chinese music and guidance. At a time, Western World was more concerned on Tibetan human rights. Looking back to the past or present of your own country, can you find examples of uneven human rights? What happened and when?
3. Sustainability. Can you see common things between minority rights and nature conservation? Like the responsibility of the strongest to also protect the weaker in their vicinity? Undeniably human race impacts to all ecosystems on Earth currently more than any other species. So, are we also responsible? Both themes meet in areas, where large companies or governments are (trying to) exploit some natural resources, that are on lands of indigenous people. Can you give historic or current examples – from your continent or some other? 
4. Discuss. Your view: What thoughts did rise in your mind having read the story? Discuss with your pair.

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